![]() The problem is that both absorb water over time and become crumbly, so make sure if you buy a big bag that you can reseal it somehow. The generics are cheaper and available at hardware stores and home improvement centers. ![]() Gypsolite is the generic term for what they call "Molding Plaster". Hydrocal is the generic name for the stuff sold by Woodland Scenics as "Casting Plaster". I agree that it's a hobby with a lot of options. The bridge piers and abutments were cast with Durabond, too. The "water" here, on a plywood riverbed, is only 1/8" thick but hasn't cracked or been damaged by cameras place atop it. and an area with ground cover applied:ĭurabond is tough even when applied in a thin coat. Here's an area that's been coloured but not otherwise scenicked except alongside the tracks: It's easier to apply than paint straight from the can, goes farther, and even soaks in somewhat. I coloured it with flat interior latex house paint, thinned about 50/50 with water. It can be mixed in various degrees of stiffness and, once hardened, is very strong. ![]() I use a wide putty knife to apply it over aluminum screen, then use a 2" brush, dipped frequently in water, to smooth out the knife marks. It's available in home improvement stores in 5 or 10lb. There are other varieties with faster setting times, too. Instead, I use Durabond 90, a patching plaster which sets in approximately 90 minutes. The dental plaster is nice for casting walls and bridge piers and abutments, but too expensive for general landforms. I've used Plaster of Paris, Hydrocal, and dental plaster, but all harden too quickly for my tastes.
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